Maafushi (November 5 – 8)

On November 5 we took the ferry to Gulhi, an island nearby. We met Cristina and Alicia on the ferry and when we got to Gulhi we met Irene and Lara. We spent the day by the beach and snorkelling in the area. The beach in Gulhi island is beautiful, just like the ones you will on the magazines that promote the Maldives. The snorkelling was very nice, we found a school of 8 baby squid which did not want to go away.

In the afternoon we went for a walk around the island where we talked to locals and took some nice pictures. The people in Gulhi are very welcoming and friendly.

We returned to Maafushi in the late afternoon.

Guhli Island, Maldives
Guhli Island, Maldives

Guhli Island, Maldives
Guhli Island, Maldives
Guhli Island, Maldives
The fake blond guy in Guhli Island, Maldives
Guhli Island, Maldives
We found this cuttlefish while snorkelling in Guhli Island, Maldives
We found this cuttlefish while snorkelling in Guhli Island, Maldives
Encontramos estos calamares mientras hacíamos snorkelling en la Isla Guhli, Maldivas
Encontramos estos calamares mientras hacíamos snorkelling en la Isla Guhli, Maldivas

On November 6 we went diving. The first diving spot was Kandooma Thila, a place infested with sharks, snappers, eagle rays, barracudas and anything else one can imagine. We descended to 30m and with the help of a hook stayed there like in an aquarium, watching sharks play with the strong current. It was honestly overwhelming to see so many marine life all at once, you do not know where to look; everywhere is nice and full of action. We then went to 26m and stay there again with the help of a hook due to the strong current. Here we saw the eagle rays and the school of snappers.

The dive continue along the Thila with more action along the way. What a beautiful dive!

The second dive was at Guraidhoo Corner. It was a nice dive as well but could not match the action of the previous one. We did see a beautiful coral reef at 6m and lots of colourful fish around.

The rest of the afternoon we took it easy.

Diving in Kandooma Thila, Maafushi, Maldives
Diving in Kandooma Thila, Maafushi, Maldives
Diving in Kandooma Thila, Maafushi, Maldives

On November 7 we got a visit from Alicia and went to the beach where we spent the morning. We went snorkelling but the water was infested with jellyfish… we were bitten so badly that had to leave the water.  We then went for a walk around the island.

Maafushi, Maldives
Maafushi, Maldives
Maafushi, Maldives
Maafushi, Maldives

Around 1:30pm we headed to the shark nursery area, a place where lots of baby sharks take shelter from predators. They swim peacefully and graciously very close to the beach. We got great videos of them passing by.

Crias de Tiburones, Maafushi, Maldives
Crias de Rayas, Maafushi, Maldives

In the evening we went for a night dive. This was an amazing experience. The colours underwater with a light look much different that what you see during a day dive. The dive is a shallow dive, only 16m deep but we inspected a good portion of the reef looking for all sort of creatures. Look at the pictures for some of the marine life we found.

Night Dive, Maafushi, Maldives
Night Dive, Maafushi, Maldives
Night Dive, Maafushi, Maldives
Night Dive, Maafushi, Maldives
Night Dive, Maafushi, Maldives

November 8 was our last day in the Maldives. In the morning we went to the beach and spent several hours just relaxing. By lunch time we went to the shark nursery and again the baby sharks were there but could not find them.

Bikini Beach, Maafushi, Maldives
Bikini Beach, Maafushi, Maldives
Bikini Beach, Maafushi, Maldives

At 5:00pm we took the speedboat directly to the airport for our flight to our next destination… Taiwan!

We had an amazing time in the Maldives. This muslim country has found a way to open up its doors to “independent travellers” as they call us; people that cannot pay the expensive resorts but still want to visit and enjoy such a beautiful paradise. They have created an infrastructure of small hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, water sports and diving tailored to budget travellers. They have also designed “bikini beaches” where people can enjoy the sea in bikini and not fully clothed. Of course it is important to be respectful of their culture by dressing appropriately when not on bikini beach.

Guraidhoo (November 2 – 4)

We arrived in Guraidhoo at 6:00pm last night. Again, the hotel staff was waiting for us by the ferry terminal to collect our bags and direct us to the hotel. We checking in to a small hotel, only 4 rooms, but the cleanest and nicest hotel so far in the Maldives. Solih, the owner, and the staff are very friendly and helpful.

On November 2 we went snorkelling and due to strong current ended up on a resort in the island in front of Guraidhoo. We walked around the resort for a little bit and then worked on a plan to swim back to Guraidhoo. We walked to an area where we jumped in the water and used the current to swim diagonally. It was hard work but made it safely across.

While having lunch we met Lara and Irene, two Spanish girls also staying in Guraidhoo.

Maldivian Breakfast, Guraidhoo, Maldives
Ithaa Beach Hotel, Guraidhoo, Maldives

On November 3 we went snorkelling in bikini beach where we saw a school of rays. After snorkelling we met Carolina, Cristina and Alicia, 3 more Spanish girls that had just arrived in Guraidhoo. In the afternoon we went to have lunch with all of them.

There is not much to do in Guraidhoo so we met again with our Spanish friends for dinner.

Guraidhoo, Maldives
Guraidhoo, Maldives
Guraidhoo, Maldives
Kids Catching Dragonflies, Guraidhoo, Maldives
Locals Hanging Out, Guraidhoo, Maldives

On November 4 we left Guraidhoo at 7:00am. We arrived in Maafushi at 7:30am, our last stop in the Maldives trip.

Of course the hotel had somebody waiting for us by the ferry upon arrival in Maafushi. He picked up our bags and directed us to the hotel. We cheked in, took a shower and spent the day walking around the island and getting information about diving.

Maafushi Beach, Maldives
Rays Nursery, Maafushi, Maldives
Sharks Nursery, Maafushi, Maldives

Rasdhoo (October 26 – November 1)

It was an early start on October 26. We took the 7:30am local ferry to Male, then a taxi to cross the city so we could be on time at the Vilingilli Ferry Terminal for the 9:30am departure to Rasdhoo. After 3 and a half hours we arrived in Rasdhoo, a beautiful island in the north part of Ari Atoll. The hotel staff was waiting for us at the ferry terminal to take our bags and direct us to the hotel. After checking in the owner took us to Rasdhoo Diving Club, the diving school they recommend. There we met Yaante, a diving instructor, who gave us all the prices. We also wanted to check the other two diving shops in the island so we did not commit with him.

Yaante recommended Coffee Olé for lunch… well, there are only three restaurants in the island. Coffee Olé is a nice place, very upscale for the laid back island style. The food was amazing and the prices very reasonable.

We then went for a stroll around the island. Rasdhoo is a very small island, standing in the middle looking north, south, east and west you can see the sea at the end of each street.

We talked to the other two diving shops but the prices were a lot higher than the ones at Rasdhoo Dive Club so we went back to Yaante and booked 6 dives for the next couple of days.

In the afternoon we went snorkelling and relaxing by the beach.

On October 27 we went diving to Rasdhoo Channel and Madivaru Corner. According to Yaante both sites are very good and there is a lot of action everywhere… let’s see if it is true. At 8:30am we were jumping in the water to dive the Rasdhoo channel. It was a gentle drift and amazing dive, we saw reef sharks, eagle rays, napoleon wrasse among others. After the surface interval we headed to Madivaru Corner. This dive site is probably one of the best, it really lived to the expectations Yaante had created on us. We came to a point that was hard to choose which way to look, there were sharks everywhere, school of eagle rays, several schools of fish, barracudas, big tuna, etc. What a great dive, it will be hard to match all the action we saw in this area.

In the afternoon we had a nap and took it easy for the rest of the day.

Eagle Ray, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Eagle Rays, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Ray, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Clownfish, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Tuna, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Diving in Rasdhoo, Maldives

October 28 was another day of nice diving. We went to Hammerhead Point at 6:30am for our first dive looking for hammerhead sharks but unfortunately they did not make an appearance for us. The dive is interesting because at some point we were diving into the blue deep ocean without a reference of what is up, down, east or west, the only indication were the bubbles. We encountered a massive jellyfish peacefully drifting away. For the end of the dive we headed back to the reef to see a little bit of fish. We do not think it was a waste of time and money, but when looking for specific species there is always the chance that they do not show up and you are disappointed.

Our second dive was at Rasdhoo Corner. Also a beautiful dive.

Jellyfish, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Moray, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Diving in Rasdhoo, Maldives
Ray, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Moray, Rasdhoo, Maldives

We found out that our hotel offers a free tour to the sand bar if we stay 5 or more nights. With such an amazing diving and with this offer the decision was easy, we will be staying for a total of 6 nights. On October 29 we were taken to the sand bar, we got there by 10:30am and will be picked up by 4:00pm. We got packed lunch from Coffee Olé, water, drinks and snorkelling gear. We spent an amazing day snorkelling in the area, relaxing by the beach and enjoying the crystal clear waters of the Maldives. Sadly at 4:00pm we got picked up and returned to Rasdhoo. It was a fantastic day!

Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Hermit Crab, Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Snorkelling, Sand Bar, Rasdhoo, Maldives

On October 30 we went diving again, this time we were taken to the caves and Mardigaa or commonly known as the Manta Block. At the caves it was a nice day with the formations and the reef sharks. On the second dive we were looking for manta rays so we went to the cleaning station and waited for around 10 minutes. Tired of waiting we started looking around and found an octopus so we centered our attention on it; however, all of a sudden, there were 5 manta rays surrounding us. They were eating and playing. It was a fantastic seeing these magnificent animals swimming and playing, the way they glide effortless through the water is impressive.

Diving in Rasdhoo, Maldives
Garden Eel, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Matan Ray, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Lionfish, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Driving the Diving Boat, Rasdhoo, Maldives

By the end of this dive Yaante had already delivered in all the promises he made to us about what we will see in the area… the hammerheads were still missing but he said it was very unlikely that we see them.

After such amazing diving the last few days we decided to repeat Rasdhoo Channel and Madivaru Corner.

On October 31 we went diving with Yaante again. The first dive was the Rasdhoo Channel, there we saw lots of sharks, a bowmouth guitarfish (It was the first time for Yaante to see it), big tuna, etc. When we came to the surface the weather had turned on us and it was raining, windy and the sea was too choppy. Yaante made the decision to call off the second dive for the day so we will have to do it tomorrow morning.

Bowmouth Guitarfish, Rasdhoo, Maldives
Diving in Rasdhoo, Maldives

We spent the afternoon relaxing, fishing (did not catch anything) and working on a few things.

November 1 was our last day in Rasdhoo, we have had an amazing time in this island. But before we had one last time to the deep ocean of Maduvaru Corner. This time the dive was not as spectacular as the first time, but still impressive. The visibility was not that great so that took a little bit of the dive.

For those of you that like diving, this is a highly recommended spot to visit!

At 11:00am we took the local ferry back to Male. We arrived in Male at 2:30pm and catch the local ferry to Guiraidhoo at 3:00pm. Guraidhoo is almost the last island in the Male Atoll. This will be our third stop in the Maldives.

Male (October 24 – 25)

We left Kuala Lumpur in the evening of October 24 on our way to Maldives. We arrived in Male at 8:00pm. Since we are staying in Hulumale, we arranged a pick up by the hotel we will be staying. We met with the driver at the airport and headed to the hotel for check-in. After check in we went straight to bed.

On October 25 we took the local ferry from Hulumale to Male, the capital of the Maldives. We walked around the city until we found the local market and the fish market. There was a lot of things happening in the area, the fisherman come with boats full of fish to sell to the locals; they also sell them at the fish market where you can have the fish clean and fillet. The skills of the guys filleting the fish are amazing, they can convert a 45Kg tuna into several fillets in 5 minutes… what the video filleting a small tuna!

Hulhumale, Maldivas
Ferry from Hulhumale to Male, Maldivas
Male, Maldivas
Fishing Boats, Male, Maldivas
Fishing Boats, Male, Maldivas

After the market we headed to visit the Islamic Centre and Friday Mosque. We met a local guy who showed us a nice restaurant for lunch… after taking us to a souvenir shop where we did not buy anything.

Old Mosque (Friday Mosque), Male, Maldivas
Old Mosque (Friday Mosque), Male, Maldivas
Islamic Centre, Male, Maldivas

After lunch we headed to the National museum. There is a nice collection of artefacts found through the Maldives, as well as things like the first generator used in Male.

We then walked to the ferry terminal to find out the schedule for the local ferry going to Rasdhoo, the first island we will be visiting. We crossed the island on foot, which took just over 20 minutes. Unfortunately there is no other way to get that information, even the info online is wrong so we needed to be sure.  After getting the information in the ferry terminal we visited the Tsunami Monument, a memorial for all the victims of the 2004 tsunami.

Monument to the Victims of 2004 Tsunami, Male, Maldivas

After a lot of walking around the city, dealing with lots of motorcycles driving like crazy (well, not as much as in Vietnam) we took the ferry back to the hotel.

It was a good experience to see Male, however it is just another busy city. It does not have too much to see or do, other than the fish market, the mosque and the museum there is nothing else.